Boia 24

Nosso fetiche

Entre as férias no hemisfério norte e as fúrias do Hemisfério Sul arranjamos tempo para mais um episódio do Bóia.

Nos arrogamos o direito de debater a mais sofisticada filosofia de botequim hoje estudada em extensas e empolgadas postagens nas redes sociais.

Desenterramos Kant, Spinoza, Gregos e baianos e ainda, os irmãos George enquanto falamos do conceito de tempo e espaço.

A filosofia oriental  acredita que o tempo, bem como o espaço, são construções da mente humana - e isso é completamente ignorado pelo Podcast.

Viciados que somos, passamos boa parte dos primeiros minutos cuidando exclusivamente das coisas mundanas do surfe profissional, principalmente Gabriel Medina, que foi tema de um texto fundamental do Nick Carroll no Surfline.

Famintos por (ainda!) mais desculpas para justificar nossa doença, buscamos um texto doído e sentido da escritora americana Ellis Avery publicado no New York Times no dia do meu aniversário.
Ainda acontecem homenagens aos nossos irmãos de sol e sal, Fanta e Damien Lovelock, que insistem em ir conosco para o mar toda vez que remamos nossas bóias em direção ao infinito.

The Surfer’s Secret to Happiness

By The Numbers: How Does Gabriel Medina Win? Nick Carroll analyzes the data -- and the data doesn't lie

Compre The Book of Waves do Drew Kampion

The Gulf of Mexico

NASA

Hasselblad 50mm

Ektachrome 100 (70mm)

Taken on the last successful voyage of the Challenger during the week of October 30 - November 6, 1985. Hurricane Juan had been downgraded to a tropical storm. Taken just south of Mobile, Alabama

North Shore Oahu, Hawaii

warren Bolster

Pentax MX; Takumar 50mm

Kodachrome 64; f4.5 @ 1/1000

"A low-level aerial of Pipeline on a deserted, dangerous day. I remember a lot of activity in the helicopter while flying along the wave ridge. We caught both spray and updraft. This is a massive wave beginning to hit bottom and suck hard over very shallow reef - a ten-to-twelve-foot day. I was struggling to keep the lens clean of spray and my equipment from flying out of the helicopter, while the pilot struggled for control in the tradewinds to hold the angle."

Fiji

Don King

Olympus; Zuiko 16mm

Kodachrome 64

"Taken at the surf spot called Cloudbreak, this view of a perfect wave from underwater resembles clouds forming in time-lapse or fast-motion photography. From this angle, a surfer riding by on the wave really looks like he's riding on clouds."

North Shore Oahu, Hawaii

Warren Bolster

Nikon N2000; f4.5 @ 1/2000

"Splashdance on the North Shore at Pipeline. First swell of spring and the swell had cut a ridge in shoreline sand. Pipeline was five to six feet all day. Kona variable clouds were moving in fast so I shot entire roll each time the sun came out. Seeing the beautiful day quickly turning dark with the approaching clouds, I tried to combine the foreground and the background surf."

Newport Beach, California

Woody Woodworth

Nikon FM; Nikkor 20mm

Kodachrome 64; f5.6 @ 1/1000

"I've always loved shooting from the air. This was from 2,500 feet - a hurricane swell in October 1977."

Durban, South Africa

Tony Arruza

Nikon FE; Nikkor 300mm f/4.5

Kodachrome 64

"Sunrise lines. A big swell coming into Bay of Plenty at sunrise. Shot from the 17th floor of the Elangeni Hotel."

Newport beach, California

Mike Moir

Canon T-90; Canon 300mm L Series

Kodachrome 64; f2.8 @ 1/1000

"You could visualize stuffing the right pocket, but look at the twist in the section ahead of you. Fluorite glass yields pi-sharp tele results. The Newport Peninsula."

"On the Newport Peninsula. chiropractor's delight, but the vacuum-pack pulling in is incredible."

Oahu, Hawaii

Denjiro Sato

Nikon FE2; Nikkor 300mm ED

Kodachrome 64; f5.6 @ 1/500

"West side Oahu."

San Clemente, California

Dennis Junior

Canon A-1; Canon 50mm

Kodachrome 64; f11 @ 1/500

"Aerial view of massive swell lines rolling in? About 10 to 12 feet if you were an ant. Interesting pattern, one that any surfer can relate to when it's dead flat and conditions are perfect and you wish you were an inch tall."

Photo of water ripples by Denjiro Sato

Waimea bay, Hawaii

Don King

Canon F-1; Canon 800mm

Kodachrome 64; f6.3 @ 1/500

"This photo of the Waimea shorebreak really epitomizes the force and power of Waimea. It can be compared to the mightiest rapids in the Colorado River. I shot this from the safety of the shore."

https://beachgrit.com/2019/07/dear-surfers-do-we-really-need-to-convince-strangers-that-our-sport-is-spectacular/