Dora vive

'My whole life is this escape, my whole life is this wave I drop into, set the whole thing up, pull off a bottom turn, pull up into it, and shoot for my life, going for broke man. And behind me all this shit goes over my back: the screaming parents, teachers, the police [laughs], priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers – they’re all going over the falls into the reef; headfirst into the motherfucking reef, and BWAH! And I’m shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out I pull out and go down the back, and catch another wave, and do the same goddamned thing again.'
– Miki Dora, “Surfers: The Movie,” 1989


Relaxado ou debochado ?