[Tomo a liberdade de reproduzir abaixo parte do impressionante texto que o saite da revista Surfing publica hoje, dia 11/03/2005.
Um relato de gelar os ossos.
Clica no link do título e leia na íntegra.]
'The face of the wave was close to thirty feet.
I made a quick decision to fade the bowl and position myself more in the pocket and a possible tube ride. When I saw the lip begin to pitch I was overwhelmed by the looming power and thought I should try to regain my original line out into the flats and around the bowl. I had a lot of speed and thought I had a legitimate chance of outracing the lip.
Out of the corner of my eye I saw a gigantic thick silver,blue, and gold lip hurl from the sky and land right on my head. I was just into the flats and in a power squat at impact.
The lip had compressed me into my board... it was as if I were standing on a concrete slab and a couple thousand pounds of water was dumped onto me.
Underwater, my first thought was to get to the surface as I knew sets were coming. I got to the surface and went to pull on my leash and felt my leg dangling about halfway between the knee and ankle. I knew instantly it was snapped in half.'