terça-feira, junho 21, 2005

Ermitão

[Uma boa entrevista é feita basicamente de um bom entrevistado e um bom entrevistador.
Senhoras e senhores, a revista Adrenalin tem na sua página uma entrevista sensacional com Wayne Lynch, realizada brilhantemente pelo jornalista mais bizarro e genial que a terra de OZ jamais produziu: D.C. Green- com a participação, vejam só!, de Maurice Cole e Tom Curren.
Traduzo aqui um trecho da introdução para dar água na boca.
'Nos anos sessenta, ele era o superestar adolescente, o camarada que revolucionaria o nosso modo de olhar uma onda.
Mas, então, consciente ou inconscientemente, ele desapareceu e se tranformou num recluso e devotado surfista de ondas grandes, Shaper e enigma.
Este Wayne Lynch existe mais em mitos do que na revista.
De vez em quando ele reaparecia como se fosse um Messias barbado, feito naquele impressionante festival de tubos da final do Coke Surfabout em 1978 contra o Larry Blair; e na vez que ele tinha virado mentor e treinador da primeira equipe de surfe aborígene australiana em 1994.'
Clica no título e leia toda entrevista, vale cada minuto do seu tempo]



Fotos de Andrew Kidman! Quer mais o que ?

DC_Ted Grambeau described you to me as one of the best three tube riders he's ever photographed.

WAYNE_Yeah, yeah right (laughter). What do you mean? Who are the other guys? (more laughter - Maurice looks indignant when he learns the other two are Gerry Lopez and Jim Banks). Um, well, you know what's funny about that - I always get identified with my backhand re-entries, but tube riding was one of the most important things to me and one of the things I loved the most. Tube riding was, and is, to me the most fascinating sort of surfing, but no one's ever related me to it. Even way back with Evolution, everyone wanted to just see re-entries. You know, they'd try to identify you with something, and then it becomes an image and then you're expected to live up to your image and then all this pressure comes on. But, once I explored something, it was time for something else.

MAURICE_When I first met Wayne in the early seventies, he was in a real tube-riding period. No one knew where he was. I remember watching Wayne getting filthy tubed for the first time, on this ultimate board, a 7' 5".

WAYNE_That whole keel fin design was about angles against the draw up the face. That was what it was all about, OK. And how you could shift pressures and work with those angles and pressures, and how far back you could get to find all that pressure. It was all about speed and trim. To keep the board moving and adjusting to the face, no matter how deep you end up in the barrel. I was trying to learn how to make the board drive through the deepest parts of the barrel. I hardly even did a turn for 18 months. I had a purpose. I was exploring.

Trilha: Stay Young do INXS
Meu tributo aos Bloc Partys e revivalistas dos 80
e, como se pudesse escapar, Green Onions, do Booker T. & the M.G.sGreen Onions, do Booker T. & the M.G.s, uma experiência extra-corpo.

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